New Sewing Pattern – the Elliot Sweater & Tee by Helen’s Closet – tester make and finalised versions!

There’s a new sewing pattern launching today – you’ve probably seen – the Elliot Sweater & Tee from Helen’s Closet. I jumped at the chance to test this pattern for Helen; as again it has all the hallmarks of a closet staple; warm but not too warm – perfect as a layering piece for the transition into the colder months.

The raglan sleeved Elliot comes in three views; View A which I’ve made, features a high neck and has a high-low hem which frankly I love; it means I can pair it with leggings without feeling I’m revealing too much backside! That side slit also makes sticking your hands in your pockets easier and provides forgiveness around the hip. View B is somewhat cropped (great for high waisted bottoms) and View C is your everyday comfort tee. There’s 20% off during the launch week too!

The first one I made (the tester version) is in this fab relatively heavy navy/bronze waffle, quilted style cotton/poly blend jersey from Guthrie & Ghani.

It’s such a gorgeous fabric and incredibly lovely to work with. It feels so good on that I immediately ordered it in the other two colourways as well; both the pink and the baby blue have a contrasting grey running through them which gives a lovely muted effect to the fabric and meant I could batch sew two further versions without having to switch out my (grey) threads. Batch sewing is rapidly becoming my new favourite thing! (I think both of these colourways are now out of stock unfortunately but it might be worthwhile checking back, as the navy has seemingly been restocked).

The Elliot is such a quick sew; even quicker if you sew it all on the Overlocker. Which I never do, much preferring to sew jersey on my regular machine with a straight stretch stitch, as I just feel this makes the seams that more robust. I’m precious about sewing but once a garment is complete it generally gets worn and treated rigorously. For neatness I do run the seams through the Overlocker merely as a finishing step.

I sewed the tester version in an afternoon. Once I’d got my hands on the finalised pattern, I sewed second and third whilst the husband was out doing the weekly supermarket run! It’s that quick to put together. In fact I do believe one of the testers wholly serged hers and put it together in 45 minutes! I love the idea of a quick sew producing a garment that will get lots of wear – it’s a favourable ratio!

There are some differences between the tester make and the finalised versions. For example, the hem is deeper, the front neckline lower and the raglan slightly reshaped. I made the same size for all three, taking nothing from the length, and sized down from what my bust measures. I wanted it more fitted across the chest as I feared being swamped in fabric. Normally for a more structured jersey like this, I would cut my actual size or even size up but I think it’s worked out ok – there’s 5-7″ ease factored in the pattern at the chest. There are lines radiating from my armpit in the pictures of the finalised versions but, I admit it, this has got a lot to do with the bra (I’m not) wearing in these pics. These were taken five minutes before I left for the gym and I’m wearing a cropped sports top underneath.

I’m also sporting a rather fetching hair elastic and my specs; just keepin’ it real!

And with the neckband folded…

This pattern works best in Sweater knits with at least 20% widthwise stretch and 10% lengthwise with Views A and B working best in medium to heavyweight fabrics; ie it’s designed with those in mind. The tee will obviously work better in something more slouchy and lighter weight. In fact I’ve got this fab vintage-y looking striped lightweight jersey from Girl Charlee UK I just might use to make the tee in…

So yes, construction wise the Elliot is as simple as can be. I’m wearing mine on constant rotation! Wash, wear, wash, wear … I told you I treat ’em rigorously!

Until next time lovelies, when I think it will be the Sallie jumpsuit from Closet Case Files. I’ll try and make more of an effort before stepping in front of the camera next time but, honestly, I’m not promising!

Hugs x

You can join me in further sewing shenanigans over on Instagram @sewsarahsmith too 😁

NB : I was sent both the tester and finalised version of the pattern to test and review. Opinions my own. Sweater knit purchased.

10 thoughts on “New Sewing Pattern – the Elliot Sweater & Tee by Helen’s Closet – tester make and finalised versions!

  1. I have some lovely liberty loopback Terry-type fabricin navy with swirls of red and emerald! Kind of hoping there’ll be scraps for personal use after!!!!

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  2. Ooooh love the idea of turning it into a dress, I had similar idea…a bit like a knit version of the CCF Kalle without the buttons! In fact, nothing like the Kalle but I’m sure you know what I mean! Looking forward to seeing how that turns out plus your friends Sweatshirt and haha love your surreptitiousness! I’m sure she’ll be thrilled with it, especially as you made it! Do you already have some fabric in mind?

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  3. Thanks so much. Her bust measurement is right at the top end of the largest size, so I was a bit worried but you’re right, there should still be enough room. I might just add an extra cm or 2 down side seam of the front piece but then just include that as an extra long seam allowance that I can unpick and resew if there’s a problem! I’m sewing it as a Christmas present so while I sneakily took measurements on the pretext that ‘she is the same size as someone else I have to sew for’ (sounds not very sophisticated but I think I got away with the ruse), there will be no further chances to fit and measure which makes me nervous! I’m so inspired by your statement of how easy it is that I’m gonna sew one for me at the same time – thinking of lengthening it to a full-on sweater dress for me!

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  4. To be honest Beck there’s a fair amount of ease across the chest – the bodice piece is basically a rectangle … even though I’m a D cup and my knit is pretty stable I sized down but my front hem stayed even (ie boobs not pulling it out and up). So I think, on balance, an FBA is unlikely to be needed if her chest does actually fit into the highest measurement. You could perhaps go for a slightly stretchier fabric than I used and if really necessary just add width at the underarm all the way down to the hem of the front rectangle. Because the front and back are different lengths and because of the side split again it would be easy to add extra length to the front pattern piece if really needed. I think it’s a pretty forgiving pattern all in all and pretty easy to add extra width and length to the front piece if you want to without going down the whole FBA route. Let me know how you get on! Xx

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  5. These all look great. I was eyeing that fabric off but G & G’s shipping to Europe is unfortunately quite expensive! I have a practical question that seeks your infinite wisdom… I’ve seen you talk before about FBAs. I’m planning on making an Elliot sweater as a gift for someone who is definitely way above the B-cup this is drafted for and is already at the maximum end of the size chart, so I’m afraid of simply sizing up isn’t an option unless I grade the whole pattern to a larger size and I’m not really confident in my skills for that. Do you think this pattern would be a candidate for your dartless FBA for knits technique?

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