I’ve happily pattern tested for Helen for some while now (see here, here and here) so it was doubly-exciting to discover, when discussing this years’ sponsorship for the #sewtogetherforsummer Jumpsuit / Dungaree / Overalls Challenge, to discover that the next pattern in her testing pipeline was only, you guessed it, a pair of Overalls!
The Yantas by Helen’s Closet are a relaxed approach to this years’ major Jumpsuit / Overall trend, described as a casual artist-style overall with a loose fit through the waist hips and legs (with the option to add a side zip should you want one). I’d describe their overall shape (see what I did there) as somewhat cocoon or lantern like; with shaping darts to front and back. Also included are classic features such as the ‘V’ shaped back and pointed front patch chest pocket. They can be made either cropped leg or as shorts.
Although these are listed as an ‘Intermediate’ sew, I think Helen has completely excelled herself with the instructions to this pattern, making them accessible to confident beginners (who aren’t afraid of buttonholes!) Her instructions are crystal clear; being extremely well thought-out and presented. She also offers plenty of easily digestible information regarding sizing and grading to get the fit you want from this pattern. I truly believe they’re fool-proof.
What I like about the Yanta pattern is, I feel, that it can act as a blank canvas for your imagination! You could embellish them in a multitude of ways; adding in-seam pockets; decorative belt loops or patch side pockets; jazz up the insides with contrast fabric for the facings and embellish the topstitching – there are so many ways you could customise these! Also you will get a very different look depending on the type of woven fabric you go for; from a structured pair using a denim or cord to softer warm-weather Overalls in a linen/viscose slub, for example.
So what did I opt to do?
I made mine in a fairly light denim with some 2 way stretch that I sourced locally; it offers that nice balance of having enough body without being overly structured. I made a straight size (based on my hip measurement)without grading and didn’t need the side zip.
I decided to keep the leg length as intended by removing 1.5″. As I say, Helen’s instructions with regard to sizing and pattern altering to get the fit you want are exceptional with this pattern; I had a lightbulb moment in the making of these!
Helen notes that generally you should add or remove the difference between your height and the height your pattern was drafted for divided by two. So, for example, if you are 5.9″ and the pattern was drafted for someone 5.6″, the difference is 3″ – you would therefore add 1.5″. On previous makes, as a shortie, I’d simply taken out the exact difference … and it hasn’t always worked out. Here I got exactly the intended length.
If you fancy making yourself a pair, there is a 20% discount automatically applied at checkout during the patterns’ launch week (week beginning : 06/05/19). For further details you can visit Helen’s blog or directly access the pattern in her PDF pattern shop here.
So, yes, I opted to keep the leg length as intended but instead of hemming them as instructed, I’ve gone for a turn up – I just think that works better with my boots tramping through the muddy lanes I’m surrounded by!
I also decided to add a buttoned tab through the centre back waist. For three reasons. One, because I think it looks cute and adds visual interest (matching the buttons to those on the shoulder straps) and, two, because it brings a bit more shaping to the area. Without that strap the garment hung straight from my shoulder blades to the widest part of my backside – for me, this added unwanted visual width to my sides whilst making my bum look a tad flat.
Alternatively, I could have deepened and widened the back darts or even done a swayback adjustment, (as I usually need to). However, I wanted to keep this tester make in line with its intended silhouette – it is meant to be loose and unfitted. I’m just paranoid about adding visual width because I lack height and fear looking like a Minion if I’m not careful!
And three, because I was finally brave enough to try dropping the feed dogs and sew my buttons on by machine. And then immediately wanted to sew all the buttons on all the things! I was amazed to discover the slider switch for dropping the feed dogs – all these years I’d ignorantly assumed I’d have to part dismantle the machine or something daft! Oh how I regret all those buttons I’ve sewn on by hand over the years!
The finished garment is perfect for my intended purpose – which is primarily tramping through these lanes of home. I’ve taken up Nordic Walking this year and I’m out most days in all weathers. The Yantas keep me covered and protected whilst allowing for a comfortable range of movement.
So yes, I will get a lot of wear out of these!
“The Yanta Overalls were great fun to sew and they have proved even more fun to wear – perfect for pottering around the house and garden. Plus, they have a practical side; I can now weed our south-facing garden slope without acquiring the usual sunburnt strip across my lower back! The fabric I used was a 5 Euro/metre cotton from IKEA and is heavy and hard-wearing. I like my Yantas rolled up, so I used a Hong Kong binding finish on the side seams so they look pretty.”
See you soon, happy stitching, as always!
- If you want to read more about / join in the shenanigans of this years’ #sewtogetherforsummer challenge, you can do that here.
- You can read my review of the Sallie Jumpsuit here
- You can read Suzy’s review of the Zadie Jumpsuit here
Disclaimer : I was sent the pattern free for testing purposes with no obligation to post a review. All views expressed represent my honest opinion. Fabric was purchased by me. Post does not contain Affiliate links.