Hi my lovely sewing friends!
It’s been a little while since I posted here hasn’t it. (If I can bring myself to, I may write a separate blog post on the ‘whys’ of that, another time). But, anyhoo, I’m back and I hope all has been well with you? Whilst I’ve been quiet on the social front, it wasn’t for a lack of sewjo – I have been sewing (and so far *gasps* with … no fails!) so I have plenty of upcoming posts lined up ;-). I thought I’d start by sharing my most worn makes of the summer and the very first things I sewed on my brand new sewing machine (I got the Pfaff Quilt Ambition 630 for my birthday back in July). At that time, I was looking for a pattern that had the potential to become a basic wardrobe staple, whilst being relatively straightforward to fit and sew, so as to be able to concentrate on getting a feel for the machine. Having spent a few brain-meltingly humid weeks wearing my husband’s football shorts (not my best look, let me tell you!), I quickly pounced on the Emerson Crop Pants & Shorts pattern from True Bias. (It’s available in both paper and PDF formats).
This pattern can be made as either a pull-on crop pant / trouser or a short – both with an elasticized back and a smarter, flat, front waistband. They can be made as a mid or high rise and all views have front pleats and side pockets. The trousers are wide legged and cropped – I lengthened mine – they are actually drafted to hit a couple of inches above the ankle. They are designed for light to medium weight wovens. To date I have made three pairs of the shorts and a full length version of the trousers! Shall we take a look?
I started with my white pair – aka my ‘anyone for tennis?‘ pair. Not that I play…I’m the least sporty person I know. I do like being cool and comfy though! These were made in an economical recycled linen / viscose mix bought from Patterns & Plains. I did think initially that the fabric might be a tad too transparent but actually, as long as I wear flesh coloured underwear, it worked out perfectly; I went ahead and made a second pair in the same ‘Pheonix’ fabric but in the darker blue colour-way.
I cut a straight size to match my waist measurement even though my hips are a size down; normally I’d size according to my hip in an elasticated pant. I think I decided on this sizing – and to not bother grading between the two – as the waistband is only part elasticated. And I’m glad I did – when sitting in particular, they feel and fit nicely through the hip and upper thigh and not too big. The elasticated waistband starts and finishes at the side front, just above the pocket opening edge, giving a really great fit through the back whilst pulling the front waistband nice and flat. There is no excess fabric gathering at the back despite the elastic …
My third pair of shorts were made in a length of fabric I’d originally purchased ages ago for a different make, which required a stretch denim, as this purported to be. It clearly isn’t. However, I did love the colour of it (it’s more of a vivid green than pictured) so I decided to go ahead and use it to make a third more ‘dressy’ pair of these shorts instead. At which point I discovered that the length was also cut really badly off grain! So much so that I really had to play around with placing the pattern to get them cut out. Grrr. But, ne’er mind…I love this dressier pair – I say ‘dressier’, after about 10 minutes of wear they settle into standard scruff but, hey, I really don’t care! Not sweating the small stuff these days.
I then went ahead a cut out the pants. Having made the shorts it was quite easy to determine how much length to add to the pattern to make the trousers full length. The pattern itself is designed for 5.5″ height – I’m 5.3″ and added 6″ to turn them from a crop pant to a trouser I can wear with flats or heels. I made the mid-rise in all views, not adjusting for any height differential, and I’m really happy where these sit.
It’s fair to say, I absolutely love ’em! I sewed them in an easy care double weight John Kaldor polyester crepe (it has a faint pinstripe effect running through it not really visible in these pics) and the finished trousers have a lovely amount of movement. I did need to adjust my serger settings to ensure the overlocked stitches were compact / dense, as the fabric, like a lot of crepes, had a choppy feel to the cut edges. This way the seams are almost ‘bound’ and feel nice and secure with no chance of fraying.
It was quite a breezy day when I took these pics, this one gives a better feel for the overall width of the trouser leg…
I always love it when I get several garments out of a pattern and there’s no doubt in my mind, I’ll be making more of these next summer. I’m still hankering after a white linen pair of the pants but, by the time I could have cut them out, the weather turned to Autumn and so they’re on the back burner, for now.
All in all then, this is a great little pattern, nicely drafted with fabulously clear instructions which sew up in no time at all; that elastic waistband also makes them supremely comfortable to wear!
Until next time, I hope your bobbin is full and all is well with you…see you soon!
Disclaimer : Not a sponsored post. All fabrics, notions and supplies were purchases. All opinions expressed are my honest and considered opinion. Post does not contain Affiliate links x).
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